Why 24€ for a Bellini at Harry's Bar is worth it.
Three lessons to take away from the bar's cookbook (and yes, this newsletter is about a cookbook).
“A perfect mix of luxury and simplicity” says this Amazon description of the 2001 edition of Cipriani’s Harry’s Bar cookbook from Venice.
I didn’t spend 99€ on my edition. I purchased it as a soft cover in Venice for somewhat 40-50€, not knowing how difficult it would be to purchase it in the first place. The most updated version is impossible to find online. Not even in Cipriani’s online shop. In hindsight, I’m grateful for my (Bellini-infused) intuition to ask the bartender about that stack of books in the top corner of their shelf.
Nevertheless, it’s been one of my favorite cookbook purchases, ever. And you should get it too, if you are ever in Venice or find it as a vintage version at a flea market.
The Amazon description is on point. The recipes are Italian, only cover few ingredients, and almost always contain lots of oil and butter.
The recipes are simple, but not easy. The emphasis in the text between the recipes is always on what quality ingredients mean, and how important they are for a successful dish. I guess that’s why I like this book so much.
You’ll stand in the kitchen for quite some time, tired from pressing a mix of olive oil, onions, and chopped tomatoes through a strainer to get the last drip of tomato sauce. You’ll think:
“I did all of this for tomato sauce?”
Yes, you did, and it’s fantastic. You’ll only make this spaghetti alla siciliana (which is spaghetti with melanzane a.k.a. eggplants), but it’s probably the best version you ever made.
And just because it’s simple don’t fool it for easy. I failed the self-made mayonnaise at least three times, and the Béchamel sauce took all of my attention getting it just right. My Bellini was meh at best (even though I witnessed the bartenders in Venice first-hand, thinking, “I got it now”).
So what’s to learn here?
Simple is not easy, but can be outstanding if done right.
Observing is not understanding, only practice can be.
Complex technique cannot compensate bad quality input.
That’s pretty deep for a cookbook. To round it off, here are my top five recipes that will water your mouth immediately:
Grilled club sandwich (yes, with home-made mayonnaise, even if it’s a pain, it makes such a difference)
Sandwich di uova e acciughe (egg and anchovy sandwich - simple, elegant, tasty, and easy to make for a large crowd)
Fusilli alla bolognese (the recipe is enhanced by a comment that the serious Italian housewife started cooking the ragù early in the morning because the longer it simmers, the better it gets - make of it what you will)
Meringata al limone (Lemon meringue pie - a good lemon pie makes an exceptional impression on your guests, trust me)
The Bellini (obviously, but don’t be disappointed if it doesn’t look like the one you got in Venice)
Also, here a three recommendations to upgrade your household staples:
Lemon Soda from the Piemont (not related to any recipe, it’s just the best lemon soda available)
So, yes, I think you should get the cookbook. It’s a household must-have! Speak soon, my fellow wannabe-Italians,
Friedemann